Sri Kandaswamy Temple, Cheyyur
Sometimes you just stumble upon awesome temples, without really preparing to visit them. One such jewel is the Sri Kandaswamiyar Temple at Cheyyur which I had visited a couple of weeks ago as part of a REACH Foundation heritage trip.
We set out at 5.00 am in the morning and after a lot of climbing,walking, photographing etc. by the time we reached the Kandaswamy temple, we were quite exhausted. But all our fatigue vanished once we were inside this temple which is unique in more than one way.
The ancient temple has no gopuram at the entrance. Road construction over the years has resulted in swallowing parts of the idols in the multiple pillars that stand in front of the temple.
Partially buried pillars in front of the temple
The temple faces South while the main sanctum sanctorum faces East. Inside the main shrine, one can see Sri Kandaswamy with his consorts Valli and Deivaanai. Sri Kandaswamy is flanked by the Dwarapalakas, Suveeran and Sujanan on either side.
On entering the temple, one can find the Sri Somanathar, Meenakshiammai Shrine to the left of the front Mandapa. Here Brahma and Vishnu flank either side of the shrine and Nandi is found in front of the shrine.
The Somanathar - Meenakshiammai Shrine at the temple
There are two entrances to the temple. One is through the South facing main entrance . To the East of the outer Prakaram, one can see the ancient stone Dwajasthamba and Kodimaram facing the Main shrine. There is an entrance through the East through which also one can reach the inner prakaram and the Artha Mandapa.
An unique feature of this temple is that all Goshta Devathas are different forms of Sri Subramanya. Usually in Saivaite temples one can see Vinayaka, Dakshinamoorthy, Lingothbhavar or Vishnu, Brahma, Chandikeshwara, Durga, Bhairava, and Surya are seen as Goshta Devathas. But in this temple, one can see that there is Nrittaskanda instead of Vinayaka, Brahmasastha instead of Dakshinamoorthy, Balaskanda instead of Vishnu, Sivagurunatha instead of Brahma and Pulindhar (Lord Muruga in the form of a hunter) instead of Durga.
The beautiful Nrittaskanda
Moreover, Chandikeshwara and Bhairava who are normally found in Shiva temples are found here in their usual places. The Surya in this temple is called Guha Surya. Apart from these forms of Muruga, there is also an Arumughaswamy facing the Southern entrance.
Brahmasastha in place of Dakshinamoorthy
On the outer prahara, as we circumambulate, we can find Ganesha shrine and a Nandavanam to the North of the Sanctum Sanctorum. The Sthala Vrikshams of this temple are Vanni and Karungali.
Balaskanda
To the North of the Dwajasthamba, is the Amman shrine and there is a Sarva Vadya Mandapam in front of it. Till the year 1947, all kinds of musical instruments were played and dance recitals conducted during festivals in this mandapam. Behind the Dwajasthamba, there is a separate Shrine for Navagrahas.
Pulindhar - Murugan with bow and arrow
The most unique feature of this temple is something that cannot be found in any other temple in the world. There are 27 Star Vethalams (Bethals) one for each star. We may recall reading about Vethalams in King Vikramaditya’s story. The Vethalas found here are those Sivaganas that had served on Lord Muruga’s army and helped to fight demons like Soorapadman and others.
The 27 Star Vethalams
These Vethalas obey the instructions of Bhairava. Which is why we find Bhairava here alongside the Vethalas. On the Ashtami that falls after Full moon day (Theipirai Ashtami) devotees worship the Vethala that belongs to their star and pray before it to find their wishes being fulfilled. Every month several devotees are benefitted through this worship.On the Ashtami after full moon day, the Vethala Puja starts with Vinayaka Sankalpa. Then at 5 pm, the Vethalas are worshipped with Red Arali flowers, and then at 7 pm, abhishekham is performed to Lord Muruga. This is followed by Archana to Lord Bhairava with eight different types of flowers.
List of the 27 star Vethalams:
S.NoName of the VethalamStar
1 Nagayudhapani Bootha Vethalam Aswini
2 Vajradhaari Bootha Vethalam Bharani
3 Vairagya Bootha Vethalam Krithigai
4 Katkadhari Bootha Vethalam Rohini
5 Gnana Bootha Vethalam Mrigaseerisham
6 Thomara Bootha Vethalam Thiruvaadhirai
7 Vakradantha Bootha Vethalam Punarpoosam
8 Visaala Nethra Bootha Vethalam Poosam
9 Anandha Bhairava Bhaktha Bootha Vethalam Aayilyam
10 Gnanaskandha Baktha Bootha Vethalam Magam
11 Tharpagara Bootha Vethalam Pooram
12 Veerabahu Sevaka Bootha Vethalam Uthiram
13 Soorapadma Dwamsa Bootha Vethalam Hastham
14 Thaarakaasura Imsa Bootha Vethalam Chithirai
15 Anadha Guha Bhaktha Bootha Vethalam Swathi
16 Sooranipuna Bootha Vethalam Visakam
17 Chandakoba Bootha Vethalam Anusham
18 Singamukhasura Imsa Bootha Vethalam Kettai
19 Paraakrama Bootha Vethalam Moolam
20 Mahodhara Bootha Vethalam Pooradam
21 Oorthuva Shikhabandha Bootha Vethalam Uthiraadam
22 Gadhapani Bootha Vethalam Thiruvonam
23 Chakrapani Bootha Vethalam Avittam
24 Perunda Bootha Vethalam Sadhayam
25 Goraroopa Bootha Vethalam Poorattaadhi
26 Ruru Bhairava Sevaka Bootha Vethalam Uthirattaadhi
27 Kurodhana Bhairava Bhaktha Bootha Vethalam Revathy
Periyandavar Puja is also performed here
Periyandavar Puja is also observed at this temple. Outside the temple, on the Navasandhis, there are nine Vinayakas said to have been worshipped by the Navagrahas. These also add to the uniqueness of the temple. To the West of the temple, is a tank called Chettikulam. Chetty is one of the names by which Lord Muruga is known. This tank belongs to the temple.Festivals celebrated at the Kandaswamy Temple
Sri Kandaswamy with his consorts inside the Santum Sanctorum
Aadi Krithigai, Kandha Sashti, Soorasamhaaram, Karthigai Deepam, Thai Poosam, Panguni Uthiram and Vaikasi Visakam days are celebrated at the temple amidst a huge crowd of devotees. During Kadha Sashthi, the Vel Vaangum Vizha is celebrated behind the Mahodhara Bootha Vethalam belonging to Pooradam star.Literary works on the Cheyyur Kandaswamy Temple
There are several works on Sri Kandaswamy at Cheyyur. Andhaka kavi Veeraraghava Mudaliyar has composed the Cheyyur Murugan Pillaithamizh and Cheyyur Kalambakam. Cherai Kaviraja Pillai has composed Cheyyur Murugan Ula , Sri Murugadas Swamigal, Cheyyur Murugan Pathigam and Sivaprakasa Swamigal, Nenju Vidu Thoodhu.By far the most important aspect of this temple, is that it has verses sung on Sri Kandaswamy by Arunagirinathar and features in the Thiruppugazh. The verses of the Thirupugazh are found inscribed in the wall of the Artha mandapa and there is also a statue of Saint Arunagirinathar in the temple.
Arunagirinathar's verses inscribed in the temple
Whichever temple I happen to visit, I always ask for the Sthalapuranam which describes the history of the temple and all its unique features. When I did the same at this temple, I was given the photocopy of a sthalapuranam written in the year 1944 by Sri Muthiah Mudaliyar of Cheyyur. This gave me a perfect opportunity to ask if Aalayam Kanden could be involved in writing and printing the Sthalapuranam of the temple in Tamil and English. The villagers happily agreed.Those of you who have been following the Aalayam Kanden blog and Facebook page for some time, will know that Aalayam Kanden Trust has been involved in writing, printing and distributing Sthalapuranams for ancient lesser known temples. This was one such opportunity. Using the extensive 70 year old book as reference , we have been able to write and produce a crisp booklet, suited with the times, that gives the history of the temple in Tamil and English.
The wrapper of the Sthalapuranam of Cheyyur Sri Kandaswamy Temple
To be released on 27th of January 2013
How to Reach:
Cheyyur is a taluk in Kanchipuram District of Tamilnadu. One can reach Cheyyur through two routes, one through Madurantakam and the other through the East Coast Road, that goes towards Puducherry. This town is about 29 kms from Madurantakam and 5 kms from the Ellaiamman Koil Bus Stop on East Coast Road (ECR).The nearest airport is Chennai and railway station is Chengalpattu.
