Between the rain showers, Cap Frehel showed its best summer colours. The moorland, separated from the sea by 70-metre-high granite cliffs, is covered in gorse and heathers. Drifts of vegetation stretch across the peninsula towards the lighthouses on the horizon. It's unsurprising that this is a haven for birds and wildlife. Just a short distance inland, the vegetation changes utterly. Fields of ripening wheat are scattered with scarlet poppies, a note of rebellious colour among carefully-managed crops.