The bus dropped me off on the side of Kalaniana’ole Highway near Hanauma Bay. My 15 minute bus ride was the result of a cursory search for places to hike in Oahu. I came across Koko Head Crater Trail, but didn’t do further research. I quickly learned that it’s actually the hardest hiking trail in Oahu. I didn’t want to do it but it’s a hike that’s popular with locals, not tourists, so I couldn’t resist.
Research now tells me that the “stairs” are rail ties from an old tram line used by the military to transport supplies to a bunker on the summit. There were at least five times during the hike when I wanted to give up. Below is a picture of the most difficult stage of the trek- the “Death Bridge”. The rails are suspended above a ravine. The tracks aren’t evenly spaced apart and the wood is shaky. A gracious man, Jim, held my tote bag as I crawled up. (This isn’t a picture of him. I was too nervous to take any pictures while I was climbing. This was taken during my water break.)
When I finally made it to the summit, I was so proud.
"You know this isn’t the top, right? This is just a resting point," a young man said to me.
" Are you kidding me?!"
"No, it’s just a few more steps. I’ll take you. I did this two days ago."
I followed him but my knees began to buckle and I floundered onto the rock. The falling ignited a panic attack and I begged him to help me. He reached his hand out to grab me, but I whimpered for him to grab my torso..my waist…to help me stand. Images of death obtruded all rational thought. I remember mumbling something about wanting my parents. When he finally helped me to my feet, he brusquely bid me farewell, probably to avoid watching me cry. But I didn’t cry. I gave myself one full minute to have a panic attack and then I continued. I made it to the top.
This was my 1,208 feet high reward.
I asked a pair of women to take the photo below- Andrea (Andy) and Maria, a nurse and massage therapist, respectively. I had observed them for a few minutes as they made no scruples about walking to the edge of the rocks. They were being so brave. I figured asking for a picture would be a nice way to keep at least one of them alive. (side note: I look like the flag of Mauritius after it’s been thrown into briny water. I was a mess.)
A few minutes later I found the young man who witnessed my panic attack perched on this thing. He was getting his hair shampooed by the clouds. He congratulated me and then told me I would get a better picture if I climbed up to where he sat. This kid clearly doesn’t learn from his mistakes. I was ready to follow Andy and Maria down the mountain.
This is how I followed them.
(Maria later showed me this candid picture and I laughed hysterically. There is Andrea Lankford, a pastiche of Joan of Arc and me…a dead ant sitting on top of bread.)
My new friends and I went for beers at Kona Brewing Company to celebrate. As the sun deepened and we walked to the marina, the locals, recognizing our symptoms, congratulated us on hiking Koko. Maria and Andy alternated between giving me advice on growing older while sharing pictures of their loved ones with me. We were each older than the other by a decade. It was 20/20 vision from a 50/40/30 point of view. Even though their lives are more outstanding and exhilarating than ordinary women, the experiences they shared with me were great lessons. I was equally as proud of the hike as I was to befriend them.
The next morning, I found the picture below on my cell. My camera phone must have accidentally snapped this shot. I didn’t take it. I didn’t edit it. I was so shocked to see it. There is no filter added. This is an image of me, weathered, being led by the sun through our land.
"If an egg is broken by an outside force, life ends. If it’s broken from an inside force, life begins. Great things always begin from inside."-unknown
