Fashion Careers- Textile and Print Designer: Gregg Conly!- Diseñador Textil y De Stampados: Gregg Conly

ENG. Inside and outside the fashion industry we hear a lot about fashion designers, we all know somewhat what their job consists of and in most of the cases this is the career in fashion we are most familiar with. But what about the process that comes before the silhouettes are created or designed? What about the textiles and prints that some of us go crazy for? What about the people behind them who come up with the ideas, who design these great pieces of art that afterwards, are applied to beautiful styles?  I truly believe that part of the success of a garment or a home wear item depends heavily on the choice of fabric or print. Designing textiles is designing with fibers and creating patterns out of it. Therefore, why not get to know a bit more about this career by spending some time talking about this great profession and of course getting to know my friend Gregg Conly, a textile and print designer.

Gregg Conly is a textile and print designer who owns Hue Object Studios, a full service print design studio that creates original prints for home décor, apparel and accessories. He has over 10 years of experience working for companies such as Craftes Mills, Anthropologie, Ancient Weave Carpets, Noritake Dinnerwear and Michaelian and Kohlberg Decorative Carpets. Right now, Gregg works on contemporary design for womenswear, swimwear and carpets. We actually met when we were both working at Anthropologie, and I believe we immediately clicked due to similar passions in life!  Today I wanted to share with all of you his views on textile design because I think we can always learn a little more about this great profession through a talented designer like him.

How did you get into this field? When did you know you wanted to be a textile designer?

I always wanted to work as an artist, and I originally went to school for that. While I was in art school I realized I needed to do something more technical in order to develop more skills and disciplines, and creating textiles seemed like the perfect answer to that. I then transferred to Philadelphia University, which specializes in both the design and technical science of textiles.

It has taken me a while to find the right fit for me in the industry. After I graduated, I spent a fair amount of time on the business and production side of it, rather than the creative one… This was partly because a lot of the field has moved overseas. Also, the technology has been moving so rapidly since I was in school, for example back then CAD was just being developed. In the past 15 years the field has been revolutionized in terms of what you produce by hand versus the options and speed technology allows for.

Why did you decide to specialize in print? 

You know that when you are a kid and you love to color? Well I just never stopped doing that. My work evolved over time into something more intelligent and personal over the course of my education. I do have my personal style but I see how it has been influenced by prints and I have always been pattern-oriented.

Why are you passionate about design?

Being a designer or an artist can be a great escape. I really appreciate other artists and have sought out other people’s work my entire life. The creative process is something very healing for me. It can also be a party.

Can you explain the process that goes into making your designs?

I don't tend to start my process specifically basing my work on what's happening trend wise. I just tend to look at what's going on in the media on daily basis and I just let it sink in, maybe on a subconscious level. Then from there, I just start drawing and cranking out work. It is a lot about layering ideas and seeing what I gravitate towards, finding a balance in color and composition. I start with one idea and it will grow from there. Happy accidents are nice, but the final result comes with a lot of tweaking to find the right balance. I am also in awe of nature and am influenced greatly by that.

So, who influences you?

Nature, as I mentioned, especially trees. Also the usual suspects in art and fashion that are current today, there is so much amazing talent everywhere I look, everyone really is having their 15 minutes of fame.

I'm a big fan of Etro, DVF, Christian Siriano  in fashion. Yayoi Kusama in visual arts is probably one of my biggest influences. I still paint and a lot of it revolves around circles like her work. Music wise I am huge Kate Bush fan and love how she layers sound.

I also love vintage work and spend a lot of time looking through archival libraries. I did an internship at the Lorenzo Rubelli silk mill outside Florence, which housed silk from the Medici, absolutely mind-blowing.

When I was growing up I was very influenced by Interview Magazine. It seemed to me that the magazine gives an equal weight to all forms of art: visual, audio, fashion, literature.

Now, especially in NYC, it’s all about fashion. It’s the second largest industry after finance. In a way it’s sort of sad because I remember while growing up when people used to make their own clothes and go out dancing. Now there is hardly anywhere to go dancing and it’s more about what you can acquire, rather then what you can create. I think the technology of textiles as I mentioned earlier has greatly allowed this to happen and has made fashion reach a new dimension of further accessibility. So I think for myself, when earlier I was interested in painting, it has sort of morphed into an interest in fashion because of the technology, specifically where print is concerned.

What are the major textile trends in the market right now that excite you?

Nowadays you can see highly engineered prints in every level of the market. So you are seeing a level of full capacity, design wise, which in a way could be trend.

Also what is really popular is the 'no print-print', which is basically a completely abstract print that looks like nothing, or is very abstract fields of color without defined forms.

I also see how people are pushing the envelope with animal prints. A plain old leopard print will not do so much. It needs to be a snow leopard on acid. It makes the skill level rise. I think a lot of visual artist are moving into the field and you can see some great work out there. It’s no longer in a painting, it’s on clothes. The economy has forced a lot of artists to take on more practical work.

What challenges do you face on a daily basis?

When you work for yourself and by yourself it’s fantastic and also lonely at times. There is no one else to blame if things go wrong, or someone to carry the burden or to find new clients when you feel tapped out. It’s all you, 24/7. So like most things, what makes it great, also makes it tough. I enjoy the freedom of not being tied to someone else's office. I love meeting new people and feeling like I can be myself instead of impressing my boss with my good behavior, because I am the boss.

Any life lessons you want to share with us?

Well, we all have to find out for ourselves, it’s a challenge to say the least. The goal of always seems to be changing the rules of the game and we have to keep with the flow (especially in the last few years with the economy in the US). I used to hate that question: what do you see yourself doing in 5 years? It is worthwhile to think ahead of course but most of us have a lot of twists and turns along the way.

I used to take a lot of risks earlier on in my career because I had the energy for them, but now, not so much, so maybe now I understand the question of the 5 year plan, since it comes more clear with more age and maturity. Now I have this business and this skill but I'm also going back to school to do hair design, just to learn another skill that I can have if I ever want to move on.

I think matching your interest with a viable skill that translates into the world at large is the best advice I could give and what has worked for me. Of course if you are an artist this may take some time to find you place.

Describe your life style in one sentence?

Hopefully tropical in the near future.

Some of Gregg Work!